Help setting up

[Shaney]

I wonder if you could help. I have just bought my daughter an MX-02 and we are struggling to get going. She can only shoot it at 4m as this is all the space we have with good light. It doesn’t seem to be picking up her shots and she is shooting too low when live firing. What height should the target be at? She is 145 at eye level. We just don’t seem to be able to make it work. Any help would be amazing. She has used the Scatt before in squad training but only with her coach doing it

 

[PeterPan]

At this page is a good table for the height of the target:

Start

www.heinzlive.com

In my situation I had to setup an dedicated light for the target. Even if I thought the room was lighted well enough, the Scatt system didn't work.
That helped and the system is running smoothly ever since.

 

[Shaney]

Thank you we will try it

 

[Peter]

I think I've already replied to you on Facebook, but I'm going to paste the reply here hoping that it is useful to whoever stumbles upon this thread:

Physical distance: Always make sure that you've printed out the target in regards to the precise physical distance. The distance should be measured from your sensor's lense, rather than from where you stand (taking into account the fact that your hand/gun will cut the distance during the actual practice session)

Also, for your MX-02 (as well as for MX-W2): make sure that the position of your focus ring is set to that physical distance.
Thus, you need to get the slider (highlighted on the screnshot below) pointing at 4, as your daughter is training at 4 meters.

Background: If we are talking home practice, it's far better to stick your paper target to a white wall. Sometimes darker walls are detrimental to the sensor's FOV, since it has to see more white "blank" around the target's black circle.

Lighting: I highly recommend using only flicker-free LED lamps with "warm" spectrum (2700K), incandescent lights or any standard halogen lamp to ensure that not only your SCATT sensor can easily detect the target but also so that your eyesight is safe during every training session. By the way, you can utilize LUX Meter (a free app) to measure the intensity of your lighting with your smartphone We recommend to have at least 1000 LUX evenly spread across the face of the target (so no dark spots, shadows and whatnot)

For instance, this one here looks like solid 1000-1200 LUX

This thing attached below is an Iris diaphragm

It's designed for outdoors to offset extreme sunlight conditions.
Generally speaking, it should not be used indoors, for it interferes with the sensor's ability to see the target when excessive sunlight is not there.

Training on shorter distances: If you mount the sensor under the barrel, the parallax is far greater.
The closer you bring the two together, the less is the parallax you'll be getting at home on shorter distances.
Here is a pretty effective trick you can use to align your camera-based sensor's FOV with your gun's sights and decrease the parallax at the same time - rotating the sensor to a 11 o'clock position (as shown below)

 

[Shaney]

Thank you we have managed to sort it now. Took a bit of moving things but it works now most of the time

 

[Peter]

...but it works now most of the time

Most of the time? Could you elaborate on this one for me?
It's supposed to work every time - perhaps, we can troubleshoot further

 

[Shaney]

It doesn’t pick up every shot

 

[Peter]

It doesn’t pick up every shot

Could you tell me what value your daughters' shot sensitivity is set to? (the slider can be found on the Calibration screen)
A picture showing how the sensor is mounted on the gun would also help

 

[Shaney]

Could you tell me what value your daughters' shot sensitivity is set to? (the slider can be found on the Calibration screen)
A picture showing how the sensor is mounted on the gun would also help

The shot sensitivity is max. We had to put the Scatt next to the scope to get it to pick anything up at all.

 

[Shaney]

Her coach has asked her to change the shot parameters. I can only do this on the Scatt professional but we have been using the Expert.

 

[Shaney]

We can’t get the professional to pick the shot up at all

 

[Peter]

Thanks for the pics, now it's clear what's going on:

The connection has to be metal to metal directly with the barrel
Just move the sensor like this and every shot should be registering onward

 

[Shaney]

Thank you. I have moved the Scatt but it is still not picking it up on the Professional. Should it pick the shots up on the Professional and the Expert or does it only like one?

 

[Shaney]

You can clearly see the target on the preview mode

 

[Shaney]

Not actually picking it up on either of them now

 

[Peter]

By the way, an update for anyone following this thread:
Everything has been resolved via TeamViewer pretty much the same day, SCATT works great (as usual)

Below is a little "teachable moment" from this case
Perhaps, it will be useful to anyone else with a camera-based sensor setting up for the first time

1) Make sure that your paper target is flat on that wall's surface
So no edges sticking out, nothing bevels, there are no bumps and whatnot
Here's an example of a setup that could use some improvement

2) Try printing out the target without ticking anything on this list below (so no scoring rings, marks, border, etc - just a black circle)

Scoring rings are quite useless indoors and dilute the aiming black making it harder for the sensor to pick it up

 

[Shaney]

Thank you so much for your help Peter. Everything is working perfectly now

 

[Ramon OP]

You can use the target calculator to figure out the right height of the target for all disciplines

 

[Davidf92]

She is 145 at eye level.

A target calculator can be useful although for the sake of shooting culture it's good to know that ISSF indoor 10m target center is 1m40. So she's just that height and can put her reduced Scatt target any distance without bothering.

 

[Davidf92]

Background: If we are talking home practice, it's far better to stick your paper target to a white wall. Sometimes darker walls are detrimental to the sensor's FOV, since it has to see more white "blank" around the target's black circle.

But Scatt works well with electronic targets, which are very dark around the lighten opening containing the target, that opening being only little larger than the target. So why would it not tolerate a dark wall behind a target printed on a white A4/Letter-size format with good lighting?